Somewhere near nowhere.... and on the move....

 

Adventure before dementia.... I think !

Nigels Trip

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Password is. Madiba

The last Hoorah.....

Last night I stayed with Dave and Trish and a lovely warm bed and a proper hot cooked meal - thank you both...

A late start of 9.30... and Madiba and I started off through the lanes of Brittany heading for the coast and then towards Calais hoping to over night near Dieppe for the last night. But the shitty French weather had followed us from the time we crossed the border from Spain...

From the outset we had heavy rain storms, hail stones and high winds - oh how I hate cross winds. Anyway we rode on until about 1.30pm (near Avranches) and we decided that the idea of riding another 3 hours in the rain, then Camping and then riding another 3 hours in the morning to the Chunnel and then riding for 3 further hours from Folkestone to Ringwood was just was not on. So as we're were so close to Caen and just riding by, we decided to go and find out the time of the next ship to Portsmouth...

So here we are on board and heading for Portsmouth... ETA 2130...

I have been thinking about lessons learnt from this trip:

1. Don't ride at night
2. Don't arrive after dark
3. If you drop your bike; take a photo before picking it up.
4. Just because the Moroccans give a road a number it does not make it a road...
5. Take less stuff
6. Take more money
7. Use a tether on cameras
8. Take more photos

I am sure there are many more....

And yet more France...

Yes it was cold again this morning and a bit moist - so on with the wet weather kit... By now most of the coffee stops all appear the same... But I did stop at a pretty little place called Pons just South on Saintes - which was going to be my overnight stop but I got there so early so.... as expected we motored on to another site nearer to Damvix. Too many kids but ah well.

I had considered riding on the the next planned stop but that would mean riding for another 4 hours and as I left at 7.30 this morning and arrived here about 2pm I thought my backside needed s break....

By the way the reception was closed on the way out this morning so whoops sorry about that, but the showers were hot which made up for having a campsite next to a five-a-side football pitch that was in use until about 10pm!!

Tomorrow promises to be a short one up to Lorient to visit Dave and Trish Perry - I last saw them when I was en route to Slovenia the first time... So that must have been 4 or 5 years ago... I was the first trip on the BMW GS.  I had less luggage then!!!

Just lazing in the sunshine now until it's time to eat. Isn't odd how the WiFi is mostly free in Morocco but you have to pay for it in France - even the campsites WiFi in Spain were mainly free...

More later....

Spain, Rain and France

A good but very cold start this morning, over the lanes from Castrojeriz to the A 231 to Burgos - then N120 to Logrono, Pamplona where the rain got much worse.. I have never seen so many walkers and they are all striding away with there Nordic Walk Poles - I remember when we walked without them the good old days!!!

After that the world and his wife took the N121 north to Biarritz and I took the A135 which was not a mistake but I can see why people avoid it - very wet, very twisty and mostly in the clouds. Then the final burst to Ortez and after a really good hunt for the campsite I found it but it was closed and looked like it had been that way for some time... So the consolation prize was to double back to a McDonalds, regroup and tap in the next campsite.

So a quick run West to a very unloved campsite in Salies-de-Bearn. No one in reception on arrival and some two hours later the same... I hope they are there in the morning !!! I would hate to leave without paying for such a tatty pitch.

Tomorrow should be a shortish run of 345kms North some ways above Saintes.... Yes ahead of schedule again but waiting in a tent is not much fun so we are pressing on - the good news being that David made it home OK but it was a bit of a choppy crossing on the boat....

Later each...,

Freezing again

Just stopped to warm up a bit - I am somewhere near Pamplona.... The weather is cold and windy and it looks like rain going north.... Bugger

Route back - Day whatever

Early start this morning but what a change in the weather: very cold and high winds (oh I hate high cross winds).

I had to stop after an hour to find my warmer gloves and put on more clothing - my arms were freezing and my teeth chattering....

Stopped for fuel a couple of times and the landscape mostly boring.

Got near to the campsite south of Burgos and things got better. It a pretty little site with a great view of the old fort/monastery

Looks like a biker car boot sale...

Good night...

A long day not doing very much - just me and some podcasts from Radio 4...

Kit washed and sorted, supper cooked and eaten (chicken curry), photos uploaded, and I have just returned from a nightcap at the bar. I hope to get away at 8am tomorrow and potter along the more minor roads before getting on the autovia to avoid going through the centre on Salamanca.

I have dialled into the CCTV at work and so glad to see thats it's raining .... What is sadder is that I did it at all. I am still resisting the temptation to pick up my work emails!!!!

The weather is not looking good going North ... Ah well ..... Good Night Reader

Most resting ....

A Rest Day... Today I am trying something new: not doing a thing!!  and it is not easy, and after a easy beginning I start seeing things that need doing on the bike- so out with the tool bag and that is sorted... I have listened to many Radio 4 programs, endless cups of tea or coffee, and I even had porridge for breakfast.  

Most of this site is large camper vans... With their owners busying themselves with cleaning their windows whilst the ladies paint on gallons of sun tan cream with large paint brushes; being very careful not to miss those hard to reach places...  No photos to follow !!!

The sun is at it's hottest now and I am glad for a break from riding in the noon day sun.  David should be on the boat this evening and home by morning... He is good company and a great riding buddy...  I could not have got from under the bike without his back breaking lift.... And the bruising has almost gone... I think David took a photo once we reached the Cafe on the Tarmac...

The plan here is to ride up to a campsite near Burgos for tomorrow night and then the Pico site for Saturday night - I had to check the calendar then as I am totally unaware of the day of the week...  Almost in retirement mode already!!!

I am trying to resist the temptation of rolling two days into one or taking a faster route..... Although if I get home early I could some of jobs done: painting the new bathroom, and the hall,   Stairs and landing etc....

So it should be France on Sunday.... And some cooler weather - I am not complaining but a tad cooler would be good...

The distance so far is 2509 miles...

Route Back - Day 3 Rest day....

We have decided - Madiba, Gertie and I to have a rest day here at Caceres. I am so far ahead of plan at present....

Just found some photos of the Riad in Fez

Route back - day 2

Long and hot ride up to Saville and I am now at a very good campsite near Caceras... And shade over tent and bike, free WiFi, my own personal shower/toilet (with paper!!!), and nothing like the facilities in Morocco. Tomorrow we (Madiba and I) are riding up to the Picos Range to overnight before cutting across the top of Spain and entering France - maybe

David's picture of myself trying to get a quick nap on the boat. Knackered as we had been riding all day and it was now 10pm...

Leaving Morooco

Having spent 5 hours getting David's bike to start we stayed in a Riad over night and had a good nights rest. All began well this morning and we found our way out of Fez without to much fuss... The plan being to get David and his bike to Spain asap whilst he is unsure of the cause of the problem.... That begin just not starting .... We hit the motorway and twice when stopping for fuel it failed to start - so again off with the Tupperware and fiddle with the connector up under the tank.... And twice we got it going.... One petrol station let us use their tyre bay to get out of the fierce sun.

We stopped on the way to buy new ferry tickets and then dashed to the port to try and catch the promised 5pm sailing only to find out that there is not 5pm sailing today .... So we are sat at the dock waiting for the 8pm sailing.

We will camp at the site in Spain that we stayed at on the way and then David will decide if he is going to thrash it to the port of Santander and home, whilst I start my solo wanderings up through Spain and on to France ( I am ahead of time so the wandering will be slower and maybe a longer stop somewhere.

Route back - Day 1

We arrive at midnight and the gate was locked - but a closer look showed it with the padlock just draped over the bars - and we are in..... Pitched in the dark and slept. This morning David was away very early and going to try to get across Spain post haste. Bon Chance....

I showered a slowly packed while awaiting the arrival of reception... By the time I was ready there was still no one around .... So away I went at 8.30am : one free night.... I rode North towards Saville - just not the same not having David in the mirror - his bike started this morning so hopefully it will behave on the route home.

Once passed Saville I will get back back to my planned pottering route North...

Later...

In Fez

We travelled up from the Gorge du Dades, which was stunning - photos to follow once I down load them off the camera.   The trip up was very very hot and we climbed the mountain passes and dipped down to the endless plains. From the top you can see all the miles that have still to be ridden across some very inhospitable lands.... The temperature here was 44 degrees at 5pm.

We arrived in Medelt and pitched up in the Municipal Campsite and where probably ripped off for the pitch fees - but £8 a head was ok in retrospect.  We asked the staff to get us 6 litres of water for tomorrow but he got 6 x 1.5 ltr bottles I will have to drink most tonight!!!  We are close to the loos...

The camp here is basic but the water in the showers is hot and have the same mixture of Dutch, French and a German Panzer Wagon.   





As with all campsites over here they all need maintenance but won't be getting any...


Tomorrow we are off the Fez...

Lunchtime in down-town Er-Rachidia

Lunchtime in down Town Er-Rachidia - just a quick omelette and chips.

Whoops and the help of some very nice Moroccans

All stop for many hours in the noon day sun. 44 plus

And more

This was before the tumble !!!!

And another day on the road

And it started so well…. We left the Campsite early and motored to first Gorge - amazing scenes and all captured on Go Pro…  the it was decided to ride North and then  back down to the Todra Gorge…. and there was the mistake as although the road looked like it was metalled it was a bloody lot worse than a track - and so we did about 40 kms "off Road" and those that know me know that I have previous for falling over when off road….  and hey presto I did just that - a nasty down hill section and I caught a pannier on a rock - that took my rear wheel and over I went - then the bike stopped just before a 10 foot drop…. and I hit the deck face first….  nothing broken on me and I though the bike was fine until I saw David coming down the hill carrying one of my panniers….

We managed to get the bike upright and tried to walk it down the hill to a safe area to assess the damage and repair the pannier but lost the bike again and let I fall gently to the ground.…  Again we picked it up and stopped for a coffee…  I carried out a quick repair to the pannier with a rock and some cable ties….

Off we set with me still a bit shaken… oh and before that on one of the many uphill sections the engine cut out and would not start ---- no electrics.… so I had to turn the bike around on a narrow track with a drop on one side and then  bump start it downhill..… then having got the engine going I had the turn it around again from facing down to get back up hill….

About 5km further on we came across another stretch on road that had been washed away and I was trying to U turn to select a line without the 6 foot drop... when I dropped the bike again… ouch .… this time I had my leg trapped under the pannier.… and it bloody hurt.   David then had to lift to whole rear of the bike so that I could crawl out….   On our way again…. and finally got back on to the South section with tarmac….. and to the other Gorge.…  God these XRV750 (Africa Twin) are a tuff bike and only 16 years old - and just reach the 60,000 miles the day before....

We are now sitting in the Bar (no beer).…   tomorrow we will visit the second Gorge again..…

The shame is that somewhere on the 40 kms section is my Go Pro..... with all the video of the Gorge Transits etc.....   Bugger.....,

I ache a bit and the bruise will be interesting in the morning....  I did some more repairs to the panniers and we are not doing and off road again..…  Just because the road has a number - it does not make it a road....

Tic n ticka pass etc

Nigel pausing and posing on the Tic n Tika pass

 

Nigel discussing to cost of  trinkets will a trader in the middle of nowhere

 

Me in the square of Marrakesh

 

Left Marrakesh by 8am and made excellent progress through the traffic free for all.... And headed South West towards Ouarzazata and the detoured onto the Tic n Ticka pass and beyond.... Just absolutely fabulous views and some decent roads although one section beyond the pass was horrendous .... We stopped for a coffee break and an omelette in a very small hamlet - it was just so hot.....

After a campsite but no supply of water, beer or any food but we have free WiFi and a local supermarket down the road... We are awaiting the sun going down before cooking....

Tomorrow we are going the the Dades Gorge and more hot roads.... Then the Todhra Gorge. The Germans on this site have all gone into town... Planning probably: Where is Field Marshall Montgomery when you need him ....   We were hoping to include a video from today but bloody technology.....  just give me something that works...

Nite nite

View over the valley - just before the Tic n Ticka Pass

We were hoping to have video on the ride through the pass but the GoPro said no... bloody technology.....

Marrakesh at last

Yesterday we broke the 2nd rule of Adventure Travel 'never arrive after dark'
We left the hotel and wandered around the town looking for a coffee and breakfast. The we left at about 11am. We manage to squeeze in 470 kms in 9 hours or riding, not a lot of campsites after Meknes... So we battle on via some of the straightest and boring roads and with the sun straight in my eyes. Also the Satnav is totally here except for showing compass directions, speed in kph and music...

Coffee in Marrakesh

Good evening readers...

David and the Rock of Gibraltar

 

Nigel resting in the Town of.....

  It is now nearly midnight and the day started at 6am this morning....
we were up early and one the road as said but in addition to arriving at the ferry and it being 4 hours late;  was that by the time they loaded it we were five hours late...

But never the less we did arrive in Morocco... and having missed the touts who must be shopping the Spain at this time...  it was an easy passage through customs etc...

We then motored towards Rabat on the motorway as we were so late...  David had booked us into a Ibis hotel in Meknes but now we were now going to be late and they would not change the booking.... so we motored on until just passed Larache and then turned East to get off the motorway and onto the R410... which we did but then got hopelessly lost in a arse of a place named Souk el Arba du Rharb  which translates into the Place built on top of a rubbish tip.....  and after quite a few recommendations from locals and very friendly police force we got back on the main road.  It is now getting dark and we still have lots of miles still to do....  Lights on and Ride on....   We finally arrived in Meknes and,  more by guess than judgement we found McDonalds and the Ibis Meknes next door.  We dumped the kit in the room and wandered off for a restful meal at the Pizza Hut.....

We should now be checking the maps before tomorrow - one very long day ended....  Note to self - 1st Rule of Motorcycle Travel.... Don't Ride at Night......

In Morocco at last......

Yippee - arrived at Port...

Left the campsite in the drizzle and stopped in the town for a coffee and to get some medication for David - then a quick dash for fuel and the port... Arrived in the nick of time only to find out that the bloody boat has been delayed by 4 hours.

Day 4 - still Spain again

It's early morning and it has rained night again. Over the hedge we have a rooster with insomnia and an animal of some description with a pair of saucepans tied around its neck wandering up and down or some weird collection on bloody wind chimes....

Nearly at Saville....

Day 3 - still Spain but only just

The rain in Spain falls mainly where I is... It rained all night so were forced in the bar to shelter and hydrate.... We order the quick two course but the lack of a English menu mean that I ended up with sea food soup and some very nasty tasting pork. David had pasta and chicken which looked good.
We managed to charge all the devices and cross load the GoPro videos of the ride over the Pico mountains.. The look good. Both with me leading and David leading.. We did visit viewing area at the top but it was low cloud and we could see bugger all.

Today we rode for 520 Kms - which started in the rain but as we approached Saville the sun came out and started to warm up. Once we got to the campsite it clouded over and we are heading to the shelter of the bar - I sense a pattern forming here.....

There were no Garmin problems today but David was leading most of the way - until his battery gave out and I lead through the Saville ring road arrrrgh...

Now a planning meeting ready for AFRICA tomorrow......

Day two - Spain

Not too early a start today but on the road for 9am. Road through the cobbled lanes in the town 😝 which was not planned !!!!
Then we road the fabulous N621 over the Pico mountains with snow at the top. I hope the go-pro film comes out ok. Then down the other side and it started to rain - and stayed like that for most of the day. I only got lost a few times !!!! I could get lost in a carpark😀😀😀😀😀

Finally arrived at the campsite ( las Canada's ) some 470 kms later,
It was pouring with rain so we had no choice but the retire to the bar....

I managed to fix the power issue with Gertie and now just need to short out the charging issues as the camera, phone, and laptop all need charging... I am presently charging in the bar and have unplugged the kids bam I ride !!!!

Day 1 Spain

It was a quiet crossing. After a couple of lemonades to assist sleep I finally woke up at 11.30 and got out of bed only to find out that we had missed the birth of yet another Royal baby......

Finally arrived in Spain. Managed to get off the boat ok but then Gertie Garmin threw a fit and lost all power from the bike. We managed to get to the first camp on the remaining battery but had more than a few u turns on the way.

It was brilliant riding on the N 261 through the Pico Mountains. Sheer walls of rock on either side - fabulous.

At the site by about 9pm - pitch the tents are are now having out first Spanish beer - looking at the route for tomorrow. Nite nite reader.

On holiday

Well at last it has started 😃 the holiday that is - 8 months in the planning. David arrived and we are now on the boat. We got separated on loading and David is in the front of the ship ( the pointed end) and I am parked at the rear (the blunt end). We finally found the Cabin and have now finished the first pint before dinner at 8.30. We Slipped anchor just 60 minutes late and are now powering into the Solent at break neck speed. The boat appears to be full of 4x4 off roaders and their high tech land cruisers and lots of dogs !!!!

Ah well another pint has arrived and it would be rude to refuse.... The forecast for the bay of Biscay is not good. Bugger. Another pint please????

All set and ready to go ........ Morocco here I come....