That’s all folks

12 July - Germany and France

All is well - that ends well.

Big thanks to the guys at Carol Nash Insurance and Breakdown.... after a little wait at the Shell Gas Station, Dieter arrived with his big truck.... he did some testing and took things apart and put them back together again and hey presto the battery was Buggered (no German translation available for that....)

We managed to get the bike started and I followed him 20kms to a Moto shop ... no luck there ... he gave me the address of a large moto shop in Frieberg... as long as I kept the engine running I would be OK!!! The town traffic was awful but I found the shop and they had a battery.., Yippee - I pull up on the pavement and installed the new battery ... and after much chat about Brexit and the lunatics in our parliament, all was fixed and working... Nice guys in the shop - very helpful...

So back on the road and headed for Keyserberg near Colmar, by this time it was gone 7pm - I thought I would try my luck at a road side hotel (getting soft I am). €68 per night - are they mad... rode on for another 20mins and found the municipal campsite for €12..

Tent up, tomorrow's route sorted, supper cooked (pasta and Chilli Von Carne). and now to wash up and have a read in bed as it's now nearly 9pm... it's been a long and interesting day...

PS. Thanks to all the bikers that checked if I was OK at the garage ..,,

Nite nite

12 July - whoops

12 Jul - Shell Gas Station near Breitnau Germany

Dear reader,

The day started in a thunder storm and the bike sounded odd when starting... we rode in the storm for about 2 hours then stopped for fuel - again she didn't like starting but eventually she did. We rode another couple of hours in the rain until more fuel was needed.... but this time she was having none of it.... just clicking and eventually all the lights went out .....

I think it is the electrics and probably the starter Relay/Solenoid thing. Contacted Carol Nash in the UK and they are dealing.

Good job I am under cover as the rain stops and starts. Just awaiting some sort of recovery from Freiburg....... there is a Honda Dealership at Mulhouse....

All good fun.....

N

10 July - Memmeringberg

11 July - Slovenia,Austria and Germany

Dear reader,

Violent storm hits Greece https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-48950755

Just reading about the storm that hit northern Greece and killed 7 people ... so sad... and I was there just about a week or so ago, one night in a tent and another at a motel.... shit weather usually follows me but this time I appear to be ahead of it.....

Anyway... I set off this morning early at 7:40am only to find that a couple of idiot Germans on GS's had put up their tent right across my down hill exit from my pitch... so I had to nervously navigate a steep downhill bank to get out ... ah well Tossers.....

It was overcast as I slipped out the back roads from Bled... but soon the weather closed in a the rain started... I stopped for fuel and purchased an Austrian Vigette (sounds like lunch doesn't it)... onwards into Austria - then it brightened up as a passed through some very dramatic landscapes and around and through mountain tunnels... one was about 8kms long ....maybe the Austrian could be asked to dig one under Stone Henge!!!!

Started raining and so I decided that it was better to ride on rather than head for an early campsite... putting up a tent and then sitting in it for the rest of the day did not appeal at all.... so I set Gertie Garmin to a distant destination and would ride until I had had enough for the day, which turned out to be about 3pm... the rain was getting heavier now and I had had enough. I located a near by Hotel in Memmingerburg and headed for it. I pulled in with 512kms on the clock.... the hotel was very good and used to be the hospital when this was a Luftwaffe Airbase... well appointed and very clean and I parked the bike in a large garage for the night. Had some strange pizza-like dish and now it's time to kip.... The forecast for tomorrow is no good so it will be the waterproof socks again tomorrow....

But for now it's under a duvet and sleep ...

Nite nite

10 July - Croatia and Slovenia

Dear reader,

Well it rained and thundered most of the day yesterday and all of the night... but still it was good not to be riding in it...

I hit the showers early, mainly due to a foreign lady having a very load telephone conversation just outside my tent...., turn the f**** speaker off and put it next to your ear !!! That way you won't have to shout....

On the road at 7:30.... and it was still pouring with rain.... crossed through the border into Slovenia and onto Lake Bled.... "everyone and his dog is at Lake Bled this time of year darling"... she was heard to say.... I was here some 6 years ago and it was a quiet place then ...now it's like Blackpool without the lights....

The campsite was full but they were able to squeeze in a solo biker with a small tent....
Tomorrow we are into Austria and camping somewhere : Gertie knows where.....

I am getting a little worried about the vibration from the engine and I am hoping that the weld in still holding. I will be taking it easier on the speeds and will be riding a shortened route home - even if that means arriving home earlier than planned - I could take more non-riding days but that just mean paying a camp site so I can sit on my arse and wait a day....

I am now back at the tent and the tourists are still at the waters edge or in town. I will wander down later for supper or just a beer maybe...

Nite nite

10 July - Croatia and Slovenia

Supper sorted - nite nite

8 Jul - Airbase near Bihaj

8 July - Still in Croatia

Good afternoon dear reader,

I had gentle start this morning with a good breakfast… we had a thunder storm overnight so the air is a bit fresher this morning.  In fact up in the mountain it was quite chilly - which was very refreshing at last.

Up, packed, showered and on the road by 8am.   We travelled over some mighty high mountain passes this morning with fantastic views of lakes and you could see for miles.

Down the other side and onto the plains heading for the abandoned Cold War air base near Bihaj…. Lots of police in area, but I found out that it was because it is a favourite transit place for illegal immigrants crossing from Bosnia into Croatia.  I persevered and I first found the Dakota hidden in the undergrowth and then just followed to Police patrol onto one of the five runways and there it was - one of the famous tunnels/hangers.   Very extraordinary and fascinating.   Such a shame that they have not maintained it as an historical piece of engineering - after all it call them a vast amount of money (see Wikapidia)

After a few photos it was off to find Camp Slapic near Generalski Stole's.   Made it by 1:30 pm inspite of Gerty directing me through some very rural countryside…..

Its all stop now - enough technology for one day…

Laters...

8 July - Vodice Croatia

Dave Head and breakfast ...

Having fun....

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5wLisBzNRCRaCBhF8

7 July - Croatia, Bosnia Herzegovina and back into Croatia.

Good evening dear reader,

Whew what a hot night - even had to take off the tent flysheet. Up early and packed ready for the camp office to open a 8am and then we were away. This really is a fabulous coastline - used the GoPro a lot..., you just need to ignore the towns on route which are packed with concrete and tourist and they even sit by the side of the road waving "appartment" signs at everyone that passes.... not forgetting the suicidal pedestrians...

I got close to the border and thought 'where did I put my passport!!!!' I stopped and had to unpack the bags and search the panniers until finally located it locked in my top box for security - what a tit.... stopped for coffee at a roadside cafe...

 

Passed through Split and on towards Zadar - trying very hard not to end up on the Motorway.... well 2pm arrived and it was just too hot to ride anymore... so I started to look for campsites... there are a lot of them but most are clinging to the side of cliffs - I rode down into one site - rode around trying to find the reception - no luck - and trying to navigate some very steep gravel tracks with a packed site of campers watching , as if they had never seen a motorcycle before.., they were all crammed in side by side - it was like a gypsy encampment .... lots of revs and I'm out of there...

Enough us enough so I stopped at only the 2nd McDonalds this trip.... looked for a cheap motel with a/c and hit to go button...

Showered and planned the route for tomorrow to a campsite I have used before at Generalski Stol and hoping to stop at the Cold War airbase at Bihac.... and I am now watching the World Cup final NL v USA...

Must have a look at the results of the GoPro. 

Nite nite

6 July - Still Croatia

5 July - Montenegro and Croatia

Good evening dear Reader,

A quiet night at the Motel - far better quality than I deserve - but I was so knackered that I basically took the 2nd place I saw - the first being the Great Wester Premier… far too fancy.

I slept well and had a great breakfast before leaving at about 8am and heading for the coast at Budva.  I opted for the toll tunnel and it was far too early for twisty passes over the mountains, and it was only 1€…

Rode many a steep climb and downhills.. thank you Gertie…. Arrived at Lepetani and took the ferry across the inlet..   must has saved a few miles.  Had a chat with a Russian biker on a Honda Fireblade, one of the tee short and flip flop brigade. The coast road E65 E80 was one long traffic jam.  In fact most of the coast road is like that… just town after town, industrial areas everywhere.  If it had a view, then they have built high rise hotels and apartment blocks and basically buggered it all up.  

The real disappointment was the border crossing into Croatia… hundreds of vehicles queuing on both sides and only two lanes open.   Being English I just followed the queue the way only the English do, in high temperatures in full riding gear… I was just melting… After about 1 hour I was joined by the Spanish rider Lewis from yesterday, and we continued to queue…. After two hours we were joined by another 2 Spanish riders and when we reached to booth: they did not even look at our passports and just waved us through.     Next time I will queue the Germany way and ride straight to front… bollocks to them.

Then I stopped at the first petrol station and downed three litres of water… and rode on through Dubrovnik and on to the Camp site at Orasac, a few kms further on… I was going to stop at the site I used 5 years ago but they have hiked their prices up to 52€ per night for a tent !!! … WTF. Anyway the tent is up and in the shade and I am staying here for two days… Chillin…. I will visit the beach and the village shop to get some supplies later.

Nite nite

Greece, Albania and Montenegro

Dear Reader,

We left the Motel after a wonderful sunrise, and pottered North to join the road to Kozani and then west up to the border crossing at Kastoria, stopping for a coffee and a bun on the way.

The border crossing was easier than expected. I met with an Africa Twin Rider from Spain (Lewis) and we agreed to ride together through Albania and in Montenegro.. There are other riders out there that ride too many hours too...,
I had to stop a get Green Card insurance from a flower shop !! Honest... and then rode on and on.... Fabulous ride through the mountains and by some very big lakes..

We rode together through the chaos that was Tirane ( one particular roundabout was just shear madness....) on and on to the border into Montenegro and said our goodbyes.

I rode on until Podgorica and could see storm clouds to the North with some lightning. Quickly found a Motel to hide in as it was now 6pm and I started at 7:30am...

I am now sitting and eating a pizza and tasting the local brew - Niksicko Two.
The storm looks like it is passing to the east ... tomorrow is a very short run into Croatia and a campsite on the heights at Camp Solitudo....

Nite nite

3 July - Greece

Dear reader,

Got back to the tent last night and read my book in a chair, and it was gone 10pm before I could even get into the tent as it was so hot last night. Manage to sleep in between scratching mozzie bites and sweating profusely.

Wandered over to the smelly shower block at about 5 am and showered.... yuck... Packed up the bike by 7.30 and was all sweaty again as it was getting hot even then.

Rode some interesting roads through small Greek villages and even managed a coffee break but the coffee machine was broken so ended up with a "Frap Coffee" and another 2 litres of water....

The heat increased and one board I saw said it was 44 !!! I am not pottering along in that heat - so we hopped on the the motorway until we got past Thessaloniki then turned south to the village of Methoni. By the way: don't try to pay the Road Toll with a £2 coin - the lady was not happy..... The www said there was a campsite there Methoni and finally located it only to find it also has a hotel room with a/c for just 25€..... don't need to ask twice in these temperatures....

I have sorted the washing, sorted the route tomorrow into Albania and am now sitting in my skiddies on the balcony typing this.

View attached:

2 July - Bulgaria and Greece

Dear reader,
I really did not want to leave MotoCamp this morning - it is such a special place, so relaxed and laid back.

Rode to Viliko Tarnova and then south up and over the Shipka Pass and down the other side, and then somehow ended up heading for Sofia instead of Stara Zagora!! So ended up turning left to Plovdiv and then some awful roads to Kardzali and picked up the 5 again. It think that over three sets of mountain passes today. Only 7.5 hours in the saddle today.. I must invest in an Airhawk seat...

Finally got to the border and into Greece and after while arrived at the Campsite at Fanari. The sea and the views are great but the site is a bit of a shit hole, and the toilets and shower get a 2 out of 10....

Tomorrow should only be 300 kms to a campsite on the West of Thessaloniki ....

And so to bed....

1 July - Romania and Motocamp Bulgaria

Dear reader,

Sorry to have been off line for a couple of days but I am resting at Motocamp Bulgaria.

My last blog I was about to set off for Bulgaria via the vagaries of the Romanian road system.  Anyhow, I manage to get to Bulgaria and to find the MotoCamp.  Had a great reception for Greg and Mel and all.  Such I wonderful, pretty and relaxing place.  So many lovely people to meet and chat with.  Just as an aside to my previous blog, the day after I found the pass closed to traffic - the buggers opened  it !!! too far to ride back..

Yesterday, with the guidance of Dimitar we rode out for a sight seeing trip, but not before calling in on Graham Field for coffee at his wonderful house, in the village.  Firstly we visited the local monastery, and then over the Shipka pass to a monument high in the hills celebrating the liberation of Bulgaria from the Ottoman Empire.  After a stop for lunch we rode on over some of the worst pot-holed roads in Bulgaria and up to the "Space Ship" monument at Buzludzha dedicated to Communism...  now very dilapidated and shut up - but if you Google the name you will be able to how it used to look like inside.

On the way I hit a very large pot hole and it managed to trap my front mudguard extender into the front engine bar and brought the bike to a sudden stop.  I thought at first that I had had a puncture.  But we manage to release the front mudguard - removed the extender and bolt it all back together again.  Used the tool kit at last...  !!

The view from the monument was excellent, and then we had to ride down again... ROQ (roads of quality) they are not...  Then a quick visit to at ATM so as to pay the bill here (cash only).

We had another pleasant night chatting after supper and then it was time for bed.  I was up early again today and showered, did some washing and trimmed the beard before having breakfast at 9am.   Today is Monday and I not riding today, so today is a 'personal admin' day.  I will be repacking the panniers, sorting out the kit ready for tomorrow when I will be heading of south to Greece.

28 June - Romania

Failed attempt to ride the famous Transfargarasam pass - and the a Thunder storm just to complete my day....

28 June - Romania

Dear Reader,

The sun rises very early at this time of the year and it crept over my window sill at 5am.... and the rain had passed . So up and at 'em I thought and by the time I had lugged all my baggage down to the car park, packed the bike and refuelled, I was on the road at 6:30... no too many trucks about at this time.

I rode until I needed fuel and breakfast. Consumed that while trying to casually massage my bum !!! It must get easier... or is there a lotion I should be using!

The plan was to head for the Transfargarasam pass which worked well and we found the 7C and started to climb up the twisties - until about 5 miles up and they had closed the road (could they not have signed that at the bottom of the climb). I bet the chap I passed on the bicycle was pissed off when he got there!!! So back down and retrace my track for about 40 miles.

Not all was lost as the views from the road down to Pitesti through the Parcul National Cozia were fabulous. I passed through the middle of Pitesti and although the signs for the bypass are there and Garmin thinks the road is there - I can assure you that it ain't..... lots a bulldozers and concrete but no road... this caused great problems for the trucks and the presence of numerous Romany families with carts and multiple horses trotting sedately on the road did not help matters.

Later on the sky got darker and then the proceeding wind blew and again a huge thunder storm. It was impossible to ride as the roads were flooded and visibility crap. So I sought shelter, along with 4 other bikers, under a petrol station awning. The rain just got heavier still so we all went inside for coffee and cakes. They were nice people and very chatty. Their problem was that they we dressed in summer biker jackets and jogging pants - and they were soaked.

The rain let up enough to ride on but only for 20 miles and I hit the rest of the storm again...  I sort shelter at a petrol station with a flooded forecourt. Sod this for a game of soldiers. Retreated to the motel next door and took a room.... one drenched biker now trying to dry out. The manager did help me park the bike in his wood shed under lock and key.

Now having dined I am fighting technology, Garmin and the Wi-fi.

I am now within reach of the Bulgarian border and Motocamp Bulgaria where I hope to meet up the Greg and Mel and stop for day or two.....

Nite nite

27 June - Mother of all storms overhead - Slovakia, Hungary and Romania

Started out a 7:30 in a attempt to make up time - some hope.   First of all I could not find my keys, so I searched about, partly unpacked and then located them hanging around my next …. Doh 

Travelled through some wonderful country side and over some twisty passes, only spoilt by so many trucks, roads works and a sore arse.   By the time 4pm rolled in I was done for… saw a motel and went for it, its a bit seedy but it will do.   No sooner had I taking the bags off the bike than the mother of all storms hit very suddenly.  High winds started to blow all the outside furniture about and then followed the lightning and heavy rain….  Good plan not to camp tonight… call me soft but I don't care.

A shower, a beer and a meal sorted and now watching MASH on the TV.    I am hoping to ride the Transfagarasan Route tomorrow. So if the spelling is wrong there.  Looks like I will not get to Motocamp until last of Saturday.   The I plan to stay a few nights and then have much shorter riding days.

27 June - near Cluj-Napoca

MotoRest cabin in Slovakia and local buildings in Romania.

26 June - Czechoslovakia still

After a night of worry I arrived at the Bike Shop and waited from them to arrive. Nice chap Martin (my hero) arrived and I unloaded the bike a placed it in a wonderful workshop. Yes, new chain required as the front sprocket was moving on the drive shaft causing the chain to hit the casing.... bugger.
But worse was to come the front sprocket was not secured to the drive shaft and I was able to just pull it off... bugger again. New drive shaft and gasket set, new front sprocket needed so I might as well have a rear sprocket too .... but only the chain in stock - but all could be order with only a 10 day wait.

So new chain fitted and off down the road to the welding shop - great guys - the sprocket and drive shaft at now one - should hold until back in the UK. Welding free of charge. Chain etc just €142 - a bargain.

I got back on the road at 11 and rode till I had had enough of Gertie who refused to go where I wanted but insisted on road 14 with lots of twisties and then refused to go on the southern route , so the north route it was - nearly into Poland and close to the border with Ukraine !! But the views of the Capathian mountains were fabulous - even the view from the petrol station was stunning.

Just a thought - this week I have seen:
. Elephants by the side of the road with a circus
. I saw a fight as a man ejected from a tram by the police in Prague for openly drinking beer.
. I met the wonderful Martin at All4Moto in Trencin.
. Some wonderful welders who would not take payment.
. Some true bike roads and brilliant country side.

I am now at a MotoRest in Branisko (€14 a night) and €4 for supper. Now off the bed... a long day again tomorrow - heading for Hungary and maybe Romania....