Having taken part in the charity motorcycle event "Enduro Africa 2008" and having read and enjoyed so many books on Adventure Motorcycling - I thought I needed to get out and do it.... I have now ridden in South Africa, France, Spain, Andorra, Holland, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Poland, Lithuania, Czechia, Portugal, Slovenia, Slovakia, Croatia, Morocco, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Greece, Montenegro, Serbia, Bosnia, Albania, USA (3) and Nepal. 2026 New Zealand
Saturday, 7 May 2016
Oklahoma... And Route 66
Now sitting in Two Bridges State Park... In the state of Oklahoma and for $10 I appear to have most of it to myself.. So for those of you that at following me on the map... Go to page 107.... A late(ish) start about 9am... I rode through the early morning Branson... arggggggh it was a cross between Alton Towers, Blackpool and Las Vagas.. They even have a full size front end of the Titanic complete with iceberg and many other "attractions" ... The traffic was too heavy and so was my heart to stop and get a photo... But I am sure you can find it on Google... I think I even clipped the edge of the State of Kansas near Galena just outside Joplin....
I pottered up the 65 and into the Honda Dealership at Springfield.... What a great bunch of guys... We checked out the tyres (sorry tires) and decided that there was a good 1000 miles left on them .... At this rate that will be next weekend!!!! We looked at some very expensive boots but decided to believe the label that said 'waterproof' on a pair for just $135... Just in time for the weather to change and start getting hot..... All the guys from the dealership came out to see Madiba and give me a send off... I could have brought a New Africa Twin with me and got sponsorship from Honda to show it off and it does not get released here for a little while more... But that sort of luck does not happen to me...
After that I rode out of Springfield and picked up Route 66 bound for Carthage... I met up with two guys on HDs with patches for the "Wild Pigs" which was slightly worrying... We passed each other a couple of times and then we both stopped at and old Cafe/gas station on Route 66... And took a few photos of each other and chatted a while.... Then I followed the old 66 into Carthage with its great City Square and buildings.... But very quiet ... I think that they may have all been in church...
On the bike again and pointed it towards Wyandotte and the Two Bridges State Park.
Tomorrow is going to be a bit tricky trying to follow the 66 and stay out of the City of Tulsa and stay off the Interstates... The planned route being Vinita, Chelsea, then West to Mannford and another State Park... Must nearly be time for another Motel...
After that well it looks like... Over the top of Oklahoma City, then Clinton, Elk City heading towards Amarillo Texas...
Afternote: it is now 6pm and the sun is still very hot... I have just finished a meagre supper of two coffees and a small tin of spaghetti and just two meatballs.... I still have one can of Budweiser left and that's for later when the sun has gone down. Reading Ian Mutch's very amusing tales of his trip to NZ. Gandalf's Garden.... (Hopeless Quests around New Zealand on a Harley Davidson)... I have listened to a few of Ian's presentation and they are very funny... I actually met him once upon a ferry from Portsmouth the France...
I must hit the shops tomorrow...
Afternote whilst have coffee and cream wheat at 6:30 in the morning and after a awful nights sleep... This is one of the noisiest State Parks so far... What I thought was a by road looks like a major rat run.. And just full of trucks and V8 thundering up the very slight incline... all bloody night.... And is still thundering past.... More and more each day I am missing my wife and home.... Maybe a rethink when I get to Flagstaff....
Odometer 71807
Friday, 6 May 2016
A Mini Las Vagas. Branson Missouri... Arghh
I left Hicksville at 8 this morning.. Still blowing a gale... Cold but not raining. I did find a very cool Aircraft Heritage Musuem just by the side of the road.. Photos below... You could not have that in the UK as the yob's would have graffitied the aircraft.....Rode on some very straight and boring roads (just no alternative).. Passed Poplar Bluff and on to Van Buran.. Had another coffee stop and chatted with two guy from the Department of Road Transport and then a very nice lady nurse came up and chatted and suggested that I visit Big Spring in the Mark Twain NF - which I did... A very calming place...
Back onto the 60 until it was time to move on the a smaller road the 160... a good road through hills and valleys, twists and turns... Just like riding in the Ardennes... It run for about 90 miles and for 90% of that it is double yellow lines and yes I go stuck behind a very large truck... Ah well never mind... Finally got to the campsite at Branson at about 5pm.... I know I should be riding less each day but camp site are get a little thin on the ground, and I want to be reasonably close to a Springfield for tomorrow.
To total ridden miles today was 286 and my tail end knows it...
Back onto the 60 until it was time to move on the a smaller road the 160... a good road through hills and valleys, twists and turns... Just like riding in the Ardennes... It run for about 90 miles and for 90% of that it is double yellow lines and yes I go stuck behind a very large truck... Ah well never mind... Finally got to the campsite at Branson at about 5pm.... I know I should be riding less each day but camp site are get a little thin on the ground, and I want to be reasonably close to a Springfield for tomorrow.
To total ridden miles today was 286 and my tail end knows it...
Tomorrow the plan is to ride into Springfield and then pick up the 60 again and find a campsite just south of Joplin at Twin Bridges State Park.. And that is in Oklahoma... But I will check on the book about Route 66 later...
Odometer 71642
Nite nite
Nite nite
Thursday, 5 May 2016
Wednesday, 4 May 2016
Missouri and the Great Mississippi
Dear reader,
What a really crap day... I left Bowling Green and the sun was shining, but only till I got on the main road and then more thunder and lighting and heavy rain... I am not sure if the water got into my boots via the fabric or over the top... All I know is that I had very wet and cold feet. I stopped in Princeton and had a coffee and changed my socks for my seal skin ones... an excellent product... Whoops the wind has blown down my washing line with all my smalls on it.... back now... I had a stand up row with Gertie Garmin as she put me on the Interstate again and that was not the plan....
I spoke to one of the guys in the car park about Motorcycle shops, with the thought of getting some water proof boots, I managed to get to a Honda shop but no boots but they pointed me to a boot shop in town, but they had a few short ugly things and lots of cowboy boots... Not for me I said...... and back on the road... after Paducah I got off the I-24 and continued along the 60 and started looking for camp sites..... Bugger all..
What I did get is high winds and I hate high cross winds especially as my bike is loaded and is like a sail.... All of a sudden there it was a huge bridge over the Great (and very wide) Mississippi River.... More bloody side wind.... I can safely say that. That was my worst day on a bike... Wet, cold and scared fartless by crosswinds... Oh I could weep. Loads of big trucks and nowhere to pull over an take any pictures....
We passed through Charleston ( sorry if I lapse into a "we" every so often ... I mean Madiba, the bike and I - rather like 'Wilson' in the film Castaway with Tom Hanks) Then heading towards Sikeston we saw a camp site on the left... Hawling on the brakes this will do nicely as with the land is very flat, the winds are getting on my tits....
I Pulled in and paid my $15 to the resident hermit... I filled out the form (which were in duplicate, signed it, he took the money and then threw the forms on the floor with hundreds of others!!!!! Maybe his accountant comes in and sorts it all out.... The site is OK but right next to the main road and none of the power sockets on the pitches work, so will have to try further afield , like the rest room maybe.
Tomorrow I am hoping to get the somewhere just before Springfield and pick up what is left of the famous Route 66. Frankly if you look at a map there is very little to see in Kentucky and not much more in Missouri I'll wager, but now I really must slow down and smell the coffee... I will continue on the 60 through Poplar Bluff, the Mark Twain National Forest, where there is a campsite (well on the map their is...)
Time now to get something to eat and try to send this blog...
Nite nite after one very shitty day...
Yet another storm....
Just hold up as another storm passes over... Morganstown Kentucky.... Every thing is bigger is the USA - even the thunder storms. Met with Gary from the local mission... Nice guy... We talked about bikes and stuff... Need to change gloves and check the weather radar app "World Radar"
It say it will pass in 20 mins or so....
Hope the video works and this was one of the smaller units...
Tuesday, 3 May 2016
Bowling Green Kentucky
Hi Reader,
Finally made it to Bowling Green Kentucky. Departed this morning at about 8:30 and rode through until about 2:30pm. Lots of rain and fog riding up and through the Daniel Boone Forest. I passed through Hazard but saw no Dukes... but heaps of V8 monsters with big wheels y'all, then on through Manchester, London, Somerset, Nancy, Glasgow before arriving here. The sun tried to come out but still it was cold and I needed to stop and put another layer on... I am about 50 miles North of Nashville Tennessee yee ha.. And I did pass the National Corvette Museum.... I thought about going in but....
I have just put up the tent and of course it is still soaked from the other day... Not enough room at the motel to hang it up... So having a coffee and a chill before venturing down to the store to get more grits and WiFi..
Looking at the map tomorrow will be Bowling Green to Hopkinsville on the 80 then up to Paducah and then into Missouri, over the Mississippi River and I will try to get to the Mark Twain National Forest and Lake Wappapello State Park... Just North of the town of Poplar Bluff.
Odometer is reading 71126 - I think that makes about 2,082 miles since leaving Orlando...
The link to the Spot Nav is :
https://share.delorme.com/nigelgrace
and the password is Madiba
https://share.delorme.com/nigelgrace
and the password is Madiba
Kentucky 2
A quick update... I am sitting having hasn't Browns and coffee in McD Muddy Creek Road Manchester... And about 20 miles from London. The rain has cleared but more to come...
Monday, 2 May 2016
Kentucky
Well the kittens were a pain so I locked then out of the sleeping area of the tent.... But they played and then climbed up the inner fly and all three spent the night sleeping on the top of the fly sheet above by head.... Pic to follow... and do course it rained all night and into the morning, so I had to pack up in the heavy rain - yuk...
Rode until about three, I am not sure of how many miles but most miles were trying to get around or over mountains... I stopped for gas at a gas station and met a charming old cowboy and we chatted some... He talked and showed my pictures of his wonderful horse, and he talked about Vietnam, riding in Montana, and the problems of the Mexicans and Muslims!!!
I carried on riding until 2pm and tried to find a Motel as I was soaked and I needed a place to get some washing done... Me and clothes, I was running out of stuff and I was starting to smell a bit ??? The Garmin sent me into the hills .. Nothing... Back down the road and was followed by the Sheriff for about 5 miles.... I finally found a motel in Whitesburg Kentucky... It was still raining and when I ask how much.... Too much... So back on the bike and up the hill.... I got to the top of a the hill and BANG something hit my helmet, and again and again... All the cars were pulled to the side of the road... It was hail stones and they hurt.... U Turn was in order and back to the Motel... Got the rate down to $50 and in we go. The washing is done and the bathroom looks like a laundry and the bedroom has sleeping bag and stuff all over the place.... The heating is on and it's hot and humid in here.... I might even try to dry out the tent later.... Mean while we now have 30 gaiters caught, shot and in the boat!!
Just watching the TV Kentucky style.... It's all guns, God and Gaiter hunting.... Like UKs extreme fishing but with gaiters... The final blow is with a gun as you would expect...
Will have to have a walk around later to find some food... Cooking in the room is not allowed???? LOL. Now out with the maps and plan tomorrow... and it is still only 4pm. First stop at a motel.. After 13 nights under canvas.....
Sunday, 1 May 2016
And yet more rain......
.... We all had a good evening with the farewell speeches and the group photo and later we had a quiz.... and I won a book, which was good as I have been looking for one to read.. and I know I already have it but it will be good to read it again... It's Sam Manicom's Distant Drums....
We all then assembled around the big camp fire and sank a few beers and a lady was handing out Tequila - awful stuff.... Then it started to rain, and rain, and rain,,,,,, it was still raining in the morning; so we all had fun packing up in the rain, which was made more difficult by the fact that the bikes were not allowed on the grass next to the tents (how silly is that)... Then a cooked breakfast and away... Still raining.... I met Cedric again at the petrol station and we said our goodbyes.... I then moved over to the McD to get the mail etc... And met up with another chap from the event... By now the rain was torrential, and so we chewed the fat for a little longer until it eased up.
I rode what must have been at least 150 miles to get over the mountain and then crossed the Parkway... Still raining but I could see that it was getting brighter the further I travelled West.... Towards Lexington and Covington... Where one of the guys suggested that I ride down the 39 to Marlington... Which I started to do and it was extremely nice road and good scenery but a little slow if I needed to get far enough along to find a camp site.
So I pressed on and the sun came out at last.. I stopped for a break at Buena Vista and again for fuel near Crawley... I even managed to get through to my wife on the phone.. But then to battery failed.... I tried to ride to a state park that was on the map but could not locate it so I rode back and pressed on towards Beckley and saw a sign for a RV park... Well the road went on and on and the sound of the banjos got louder and louder.. I finally found it and gave the man $15 for the nights pitch... I had look at the toilet/showers and one quick look was enough... No shower tonight !!!
Tomorrow I will be mainly riding towards London, Somerset and Glasgow in Kentucky...
Odometer is reading 70674..
Saturday, 30 April 2016
HU Day 3 - Saturday
Reader,
Yesterday was a bit of a long day, there where a few presentations that I attended, and there was a lot of wandering around and chatting.. There is only so many times you can ask about a bike... And then get a 30 minute history and list of all the bolt ones and twiddly bits that they have had to buy otherwise the bike would not be complete.
After the evening meal there was a couple of presentations, they were really good, especially the main event from Dylan ( I met him at Ace Cafe earlier in the year and chatted and bought his book) he rode around the world and had a great time, but when he got to the Darrien Gap going south, he had already decided to build a raft, powered by his bike and ride around the gap, Panama to Columbia ?? A great story and a very motivational speaker.... I am looking forward to reading the book (When the Road Ends) when I get home.....
By the time that was finished at about 10:30 I was ready for my bed....
We are still having issues with WiFi so there will be a few to go from the first McDs I find.
It is now 6.30 pm and I have already showered and had my first cup of tea... and I will start sorting out the kit later as I have to repack it all ready for the off tomorrow.... I would prefer to be on the road, rather than static for days like this... You just lose the momentum of the road.... Everyone is talking about the storms coming in tonight and tomorrow..... It is not going to be pleasant, but if it is too much then I will just stop and wait it out....
More later....
More later....
Horizons Unlimited - Day 1 - Thursday..
Dear Readers
Day two at HU dawned and the rain had gone but it stayed grey and overcast all day.
The are about 125 people booked in here so it is a cosy meeting (UK UK was about 700), so nice and small, although it could do with a few vendors and dealerships to attend.. There are at present on one organisation here and that is Greg and Melanie Turp from 2WANDRRs.com. Such a nice friendly couple and hopefully I will be meeting up with them again over at Flagstaff next month. They are also travelling over to the UK and will be at the HU UK event.
The time now is 5.15 and I am booked in for evening meal at 6pm... Then a few beers and hit the sack.... I must remember to clean and oil the bike chain tomorrow and get a good look at the map ready for Sunday.... I am sure that many will be offering advice on the best route to take... But at present it will be back to the Parkway and then head in the direction of St Luis to pick up Route 66 or what is left of it.. I think I will plan to be there for the 18th May .... But that is a very long way to ride.....
Nigel
HU Day 2 - Friday
Dear reader(s)
We are all just waiting for the water to subside following one hell of a thunder storm last night.. Lots of rivers and lakes on the site this morning..... The WiFi here is rubbish or non-existent... So I will back these up until I can get to a McDonalds... I have tried to send a message home via the spot Sat device and have assumed that it got there..
Unexpectedly ( or I should have known) most of the bikes here are BMW GSAs with lots of Touratech bits bolted on... Although there are a couple of others : one being a very odd VStrom with two normal panniers and a further 4 large suit cases strapped on - two at the back like top boxes and 2 hanging off the sides at the front - and I mean Big cases..... Not only that the bike has a lap seat belt for the rider to wear ... Very crazy... I will post photos later....
Met another couple of Brits from Somerset yesterday and they have been working here for over 11 years... There is a ride out this morning to the site of the surrender between Generals' Grant and Lee but I don't think I will go - I CBA'd to get suited and booted just to ride 7 miles down the road... I might call in on Sunday if it not raining.... Although the forecast is for thunder stores all day on Sunday ... Just what I needed... I hope to be on the road for about 9am on Sunday.
I have been getting lots of advice on the best way to get to Flagstaff... But at present I just would like to get back into the sun and warmth.... ( yes I know it is cold and wet in UK but I came all this way for heat....) I am going to have to ride west over the mountains and head for Lexington, and it may have to be on a bit of Interstate to start.... Then locate a camp site.... Or motel if I am totally soaked!!!!
Thursday, 28 April 2016
HU Virginia 2016
Had a very slow start this morning and rode the last 80 miles to the Holliday Lake State park - the site for the Horizons Unlimited meeting 2016. The trip was hot and humid and I stopped a couple of times for a break and a drink.... The roads are virtually empty and a dream to ride - albeit at my sedate pace. I have just met two guys that have just ridden down from Maine in just two days.... That's about 500+ miles per day.... Mind you the BMW R1200 GSA was made for eating up the miles... I am watching the same guy putting up his huge tent, and has been doing that for over a hour...
My tent is up but we are not allowed to park the bikes on the grass : how odd...
So I have had to stack the panniers in the porch of the tent....
I did volunteer to assist and have been helping to fold up some of the merchandise ready for them to sell... Then they started getting the signage ready .... Oh so much signage... Just take a ride down only road in the UK or anywhere for that matter and there is just too much signage.... I know of a stretch on road in hampshire where there are over 100 signs in about 2 miles.....
Ah well back to the plot... It is now 8 in the morning and whilst writing last night I was attacked by 4 nice guys carrying beers and stuff... So we sat and talked for a couple of hours then cooked supper under the cover of a large barn.... Then the rain started hard and it was time to turn in..... It rained until about 5 am and I thought I had better get this written before the place gets over run with big BMW GSs.... And I can't get onto the www.
All is well and I am here until Sunday then I will need to decide on a route for the next part of the trip - over to Flagstaff - about 2000 and I have about 20 days to get there....
TTFN
Tuesday, 26 April 2016
26th April - non riding day.
Dear reader,
I have been through my kit but could find very little to dump... May I just need to pack it better!!! This morning I rode to the local store - just 15 miles away .... Why they call it a convenience store is beyond me... Well I got some grits, a couple of bottles of water and something for lunch.
Having sorted that I fixed one of the LED lights on the front of the bike, as the cable had got pulled when they strapped the bike to the pallet. I believe that the crash bars are a bit out of shape too with all the pressure of the straps - we will see how that goes but I may have to undo them, bend them back into shape and then re attach them to the bike... I suppose it could do with a bit of a spot weld to hold it in place... I checked the top box and no Mig welder in there !!
Having returned for another cup of tea, I then set off on one of the trails, dropping down fast into a beautiful glen and then thought I would take a short cut back up to the camping area.... Oh my Lord am I out of condition... Puffing and panting like a 64 year old !!!
Now back at the tent and watching at least 5 squirrel playing around the trees near my tent... And it it so very quiet here... I tried to resist blogging but I am still not used to sitting and communing with nature yet... It is 2pm and I think I am the only one left in this forest? For supper this evening I will be mostly having 100% natural Beef Broth with maybe a little fusilli pasta for bulk... And reading my book by Jeremy Kroeker : Motorcycle Therapy....
The scars from my over scratching of mozzie bits are healing and I am now wearing socks and desert boots.... and a hat !!! (Note to my wife... The new trousers are working out a treat.. but I am resisting making them into shorts xx)
More later if I get bored and start chatting with my self....
Nigel's in Fairy land ... Honest...
Dear reader,
The day started well with a good breakfast coffee and instant cream wheat, a hot shower and a part shave, numerous cups of tea. Had a slow start, done the emails etc.... Then packed the bike, got all the kit on, got dressed and it would not start - battery flat... Bugger I thought... Then one of the old guys came over for the stoop and offered a battery charger... What a hero. Well we charged it up for just 15 minutes and hey presto we were away... Phew..... People are so kind...
I managed to get back on the parkway and many miles at a sedate 45 mph.. I was heading for the campsite at Rocky Knob on the parkway but like a few sad people there it was closed... Not happy teddies : Opens next week... So next option was the Fairy Stone State Park on the 57 north of Stuart Virginia (yes I crossed another state line) and this site is even quieter than the quietest place on the planet from the other day. Although there was a road closed detour and lead me though some very back woods part of the country --- I am still too early for the HU event so I have booked in here for two nights.. It will be good to have a day without riding. I intend tomorrow to find out which 1/4 of my kit I don't need.... Must be brave and ruthless.
Whilst I am writing this I am also cooking supper it's 5pm and I am having pasta with creamy Parmesan chicken - it says on the pack serves 4+ but it will have to do...... And the last of the Budweiser sleep aids...
Before turning in for the night I met a charming couple with their twin young daughters and we sat a talked for over an hour about my trip, England and what the hell is going on with Trump!!!
I must remember to ride into town tomorrow as the shows a Grocery store..
Odometer 70279..
Monday, 25 April 2016
Boone North Carolina..
Hi readers,
I short blog as the wind is getting up and there maybe a storm rolling in.
I had a very lazy start to the day - it is Sunday after all... I think. Got straight back onto the Blue Ridge Mountain Parkway and roads for miles without seeing another soul.. I eventually met up with a few bikers and had various conversations about how bike etc... Then just as I was getting in my stride they closed the road.... Diversion in place... And that las test for miles and once back on the Parkway - Gertie the Garmin threw one of her hissy fits... and just would not track back on to the Parkway... Anyway I arrived in West Jefferson and had a few more meetings with bikers and also managed to put in a call the my wife (missing her lots) and also my mother (bless her).
I was now time for the day camp site hunt - only two closed this time before I back tracked to Boone (hence the circles on the tracking map).. A very nice site next to a small stream. I am a day or so ahead of schedule, if there is such a thing... I don't need to be at the HU event until Thursday afternoon. So I will try again to have a gentle ride up to Roanoke and see if the camp site at Smith Mountain Lake State Park is open for business. I must remember to get some stores in from Walmart or such like....
On the whole some fabulous scenery and amazing views from the Parkway and mere photos does not do it justice - you will just have to visit yourself...
I do believe that I have just complete the first 1000 miles on this trip...
Odometer 70199
Nite nite reader(s)
Sunday, 24 April 2016
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